Tuesday, October 21, 2014

The RESIZING conundrum!

One would think that resizing an image would be easy. I've always had a grasp on this and never thought about it much until last night's workshop that I taught. I wanted to show examples on both the MAC and the PC.

On the PC I showed how to use Paint, How to Right Click in File Explorer and use the Send by Mail and I showed how to do it using Lightroom. Now I've always used Lightroom since version 1 and its so easy now with the Custom Export jobs you can save. I have custom jobs for 1024x768 at 72 dpi JPG, 1920x1080 at 72 dpi JPG and 2048-by-1536 (yes an odd size but its what my iPad uses (at 264 ppi)). Because I use these save Export jobs or presets, I never give it much thought. But after some questions yesterday and some e-mails that followed, I released perhaps it's a little tougher that I thought, specially for people new to photography and DPI, Resolution, Sizes, Colorspace and so on.

At club (Delta Photo Club) we use a full HD capable projector and display images at 1920x1080. CAPA used to have an old archaic standard for years at 1024x768 which many clubs still use today because they never updated their projectors because CAPA never demanded more. But, thankfully CAPA changed their standard to 1400x1050. Note that I could not find mention of this on their website and under their 2014 Digital Competition guidelines it still stated as 1024x768. But I have been told its 1400x1050. This is an odd size for digital display as most projectors are capable of much higher resolution. Of note is that this size is a 4:3 aspect ratio which is in keeping with older standards for photography and one that is till used today in Micro 4/3 cameras and most pocket cameras. Why they would choose to support those standards as opposed to most photography enthusiasts 3:2 aspect ratios found in most DSLRs, I do not understand. Note also that OLD monitors were also 4:3 aspect ratios but you cannot even buy those anymore. Most monitors now use a much wider aspect ratio.

A challenge of course is that Vertical images must always display smaller that horizontal images because of the vertical pixel limitations. An actual 1400x1050 horizontal image would become 787x1050. No fair for those entering Vertical images. In print the images can be 16"x20" Vertical or Horizontal. Perhaps a better option would have been to use the full height of an HD projector as limits, thus making images 1080x1080 as the max size. A 1:1 aspect ratio.

Another thought would be to limit the total number of pixels or total number of square inches. This could add a fairness to those submitting panoramic images. But I digress...

So for Digital Image Submission here is what is required

SIZE (In Pixels):          1024x768  or  1400x1050  or  1920x1080
Dots Per Inch (DPI):   72 (more on this below)
Colorspace:                sRGB
File Type:                   JPG

Delta Photo Club is 1920x1080
CAPA is 1400x1050
Some competitions (read the rules) are 1024x768

So you can quickly see what problems lie ahead here. When clubs ask for image sizes they want the size in pixels but they also require 72 dpi using the sRGB colorspace. Most beginners do not know this and worse they do not even know or understand what it is. Most digital cameras now shoot RAW and so conversions are required. Also, most beginners quickly learn that using AdobeRGB or ProRGB are better color spaces for photographers that print images. Lastly most digital cameras do not shoot at 72 dpi as a standard and most printers want 240 or 300 dpi images.

So, most of these settings all need to be changed when resizing images for club or competition.

Programs like Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop easily handle these changes when exporting images. Doing this on a MAC or PC using built in tools is either more complicated or not doable at all.
I remembered that Microsoft had a great FREE app just for doing this that was part of the Windows XP Power Toys package. I grabbed a copy and found that this program will not run* (perhaps it runs but it does not install) in a Windows 7 or 8 machine. So I downloaded several apps to do this. I found they were all lacking and many were trouble navigating to a ?safe? download area. I encountered several threat/virus issues along the way. So I would NOT recommend blindly looking for and installing several apps to do this.

I do on occasion use FaststoneViewer on my laptop and it has a separate Resize tool. This tool will handle it all but it is fairly complex to use and most beginners would have a very hard time getting the correct results.

So I turn back to Lightroom. Besides being one of the best and easiest to use tools for editing and organizing images, it?s also a great deal at $159.99 cdn (often on sale for less). Or you can opt for a subscription to Adobe Creative Cloud Photography Edition where you get Adobe Lightroom and ALL updates and Adobe Photoshop and ALL updates for only 9.99 per month. A great deal.

I never did have the time to do the conversion on the MAC and so I will explore it further. The MAC will change settings when emailing depending what mail program you use, but again, the results may be different. Again, Lightroom is a great MAC solution also specially since Apple has laid Aperture to rest.
So watch and check your images once you have resized them or exported them. Look at the Metadata in the image to see if its correct. Some of the utilities change sizes but do not change colorspace unless you specify JPG. Also, many will not change the DPI settings.

So perhaps someone out there knows of a great free utility that will do this for a PC and for a MAC. If you do, please let me know.

Why 72 is significant

(This section is from somewhere on the web and was part of my archives. The link no longer worked. I will try to find the original source.)

Many file formats, including JPG, TIF and PSD, store an image's pixel density setting. If you save a JPG at 200 pixels/inch, it will remain at 200.

Other formats, including GIF and PNG, discard pixel density. If you save a 200 DPI image as a PNG, it won't save that DPI at all. Many image editors, including Adobe Photoshop, assume that an image is 72 DPI if the information is not stored. (Note: Photoshop's "Save for Web" feature discards unnecessary print information, including pixels/inch from its Image Size dialog box.)

Seventy-two is a magic number in printing and typography. In 1737 Pierre Fournier used units called cicero's to measure type. Six cicero's were 0.998 inches.

Around 1770, Francois-Ambroise Didot used slightly larger cicero's to fit the standard French "foot." Didot's pica was 0.1776 inches long and divided evenly into 12 increments. Today we call them points.
In 1886, the American Point System established a "pica" as being 0.166 inches. Six of these are 0.996 inches.

None of the units ever strayed far from 12 points per pica: 6 picas per inch = 72 points per inch. It was an important standard by 1984, when Apple prepared to introduce the first Macintosh computer. The Mac's interface was designed to help people relate the computer to the physical world. Software engineers used the metaphor of a desk to describe the arcane workings of a computer, right down to "paper", "folder" and "trash" icons.

Each pixel on the original Mac's 9-inch (diagonal) and 512 x 342 pixel screen measured exactly 1 x 1 point. Hold a ruler to the glass, and you'd see that 72 pixels would actually fill 1 inch. This way, if you printed an image or piece of text and held it next to the screen, both the image and hard copy would be the same size.

But early digital pictures were clunky and jagged. As screen technology and memory improved, computers were able to display more pixels on the same size monitor. Matching a print-out to the screen became even less certain when raster and vector apps allowed users to zoom in and examine pixels closely. By the mid-1990s, Microsoft Windows could switch between 72 and 96 pixels per inch on screen. This made smaller font sizes more legible because more pixels were available per point size.

Today, designers and clients alike understand that the sizes of items on the screen are not absolute. Differences in screen size and zoom functionality are commonplace. But 72 is still the default.

The Reason for 72 dpi

Besides being "the" standard, clubs and organizations also want to make their own lives easier. Some programs will display relative sizes versus actual sizes. So a 1" by 1" image at 72 dpi and a 1" by 1" image at 144 dpi should both display and print the same size but this is not always the case. By specifying a standard there is less chance for problems with sizing to occur. 99 percent of the time having the wrong dpi setting will be ok but note that many competition boards will not accept images that have not been correctly formatted!

Now What?
I will continue to work on a document that explains all this as clearly as possible and will look for good simple solutions for both the PC and the MAC. Will keep you posted.

© 2014 Francois Cleroux

Version 1.00 - October 2014

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

A New Personal Edict

So I need my first flashlight since moving to the new house and it didn't work. Nothing! No light. This is an LED flashlight that is new and barely used. I do use it at my desk but not often and not for long.

But, no problems. The batteries are dead. This happens. I unscrew the cap off the flashlight and there it is!! Another leaked battery. And, lo and behold, its a Duracell battery. Not only is it a Duracell but obviously its not very old its good till 2023.

This flashlight came with this battery.

This flashlight is a fairly high end CREE light that is very bright. But having said that it led me to thinking that perhaps there may be fake Duracell's out there. So I did a little research and found out that there are a TON of fake Duracell's out there. So much so that there are many warnings posted on the web:


In the link above you can see many various fake Duracell's. Doing more research you find that many of the fakes are 'identical' and they cannot be differentiated from the real Duracell's. There is talk of fake Duracell's being sold in common large brand department stores.

So, with no way of knowing real from fake, and with even real one's seeming to have leaking problems; I've decided to not only never purchase Duracell's again, but if I get Duracell Batteries with a product I purchase, I will replace them with Energizer batteries.

Another issue I have is this; here on Amazon there appears to be some fake Duracell's:


If these were actually fake, one phone call from an on staff Lawyer at Duracell would have those removed from the Amazon store. So either, they are real, or Duracell doesn't care in protecting consumers from these crappy batteries. Perhaps they are thinking as long as people are buying "Duracell's", any Duracell, real or fake, it is better than having them purchase the competitions batteries.

A Note on fakes and other Languages: If you look on the battery in the photo you'll see some Chinese writing on it. Some people think anything with Arabic, Chinese, Japanese (there must be other languages) must be fake. Duracell makes batteries for sale in all these different countries including Belgium and thus has those languages on it. I could not find a source stating what are all the countries that make real Duracell's ie where are all the Duracell Factories but I did find this about American Made Duracell's.


I also found that the made in China Duracell's apparently get into the U.S. market via way of Canada. Apparently these batteries also have the French on them. I'm thinking perhaps those are for the African market but that's just a guess.

For now what I will do is this;

1)  I will no longer buy Duracell's except in the event of an Emergency where no other brands are available. And even then I may not.

2)  I will further investigate Canadian Duracell's and will try to find the source of Canadian Duracell's. I will purchase several packs from large retail stores and see if I can find differences and will report further.

3)  I will write a letter to Procter & Gamble (parent company) and will ask for clarification on Fake Batteries, where they have factories (other countries) and why they do not put an end to fakes on Amazon.com and other Retailers.

If I get a response I will post it here also.

© 2014 Francois Cleroux

Version 1.00 - September  2014

Friday, August 1, 2014

Not All Batteries are Created Equal!

I've been using Energizer Batteries. and nothing but Energizer Batteries for so many years now I had forgotten why I only used that brand. Until recently that is.

Years ago (mid to late 80's) before I retired from photography I used portable flashes all the time. Although the cost of the batteries was a concern, having batteries that lasted a long time was ultimately more important. I ran many tests on many batteries back then and decided that the best bang for the buck was the Energizer Batteries. Later, something else confirmed that those were the batteries I should be using.

I know battery technology has come a long way since then, but I've never changed from my "stick with Energizer" mantra I have always spoken. Some of you may know that I have just moved in the last week. a week before the move however, a clock on the wall had stopped working. So I decided to change the batteries. I took the clock off the wall and it contained two Duracell batteries. They had leaked!! I haven't had a set of batteries leak in over 25 years. I didn't think much about it and cleaned the contacts and put some new Energizer Batteries in and the clock started again.

Shot with my iPhone

While packing my photography gear getting ready for the move, I grabbed my LED Video Light which uses 6 AA batteries. Some of the batteries had leaked. They were Duracell batteries. This annoyed me and remembering the clock batteries I wondered why I even had Duracell batteries. Then I remembered we need some when we were in the U.S. and all they had at Costco was Duracell and their own house brand batteries. So I had opted for the better ones. I carefully cleaned it all up and used some water and then let it dry properly. Again I replaced the batteries with Energizer Batteries. I remembered however other than a quick ON and OFF I had never used the batteries at all. The clock batteries had been drained, these should of been brand new. I also noted the dates on them, they should have been good for many more years. I wondered if that "batch" of batteries were bad.

The very next day I delivered a high end Logitech cordless mouse to a clients office. When I opened up the package it contained two Duracell Batteries. They were in a plastic wrapped two pack. They had leaked!! And not only had they leaked but when I picked up the still sealed package, some fairly wet liquid got onto my hands?? Not sure what is was, but I disposed of them and washed my hands. Obviously not a bad batch.

Then I remembered! That was why I stopped using Duracell batteries in the 80's. They used to always leak. Well, nothing has changed. If you find you have had batteries leak on you, please tell me. What brand were they? Duracell, Energizer or some cheap brand? Let me know.

In the meantime I do recommend the Energizer Batteries. If you need longer lasting and lightweight, try the Energizer Lithium Batteries!

© 2014 Francois Cleroux

Version 1.10 - August 2014

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Noise vs. Grain

In the same forum (Fine Art Photographers) someone said they liked Noise as it gave them that grainy look of film. My reply. 
On the grainy look….
OK lets get this clear, digital noise is NOT grain. It doesn’t even approximate grain.
In traditional B&W film grain is caused by the size of the silver crystals in the film itself. It is what creates the image in the form of black on the negative. These almost invisibly small crystals take on the look of grain when enlarged. This ‘grain’ is prized by many photographers even to this day and it still plays a large role in the Fine Art photography world of collectors.
B&W grain is uniform based on the film type. Different films had different grains, some finer, some larger but generally always uniform throughout the entire picture in the whites, mid tones and blacks (but not in the blown out areas).
Photographers usually likes a specific film for the grain (or lack thereof) and often shot all their work (or sometime specific projects) with a specific film. The reason for this is because of consistency. They could get very consistent repetitive results if they used the same film and the same processes. This is important when creating a project or body of work.
Digital noise on the other hand varies greatly from picture to picture based on not just the ISO setting used but on the scene itself, the amount of light and dark areas, whether the scene is back lit or not and even on if the exposure is perfect or not. Add to the fact the longer exposures change the whole equation as does temperature. The hotter it is you usually end up with more noise.
Another issue with noise is that it varies not just from picture to picture but within a picture itself. Each area light/dark will have differing amounts of noise. And this noise is not shaped and randomized like ‘silver crystals’ but takes on blotchy areas and worse (or better if that’s what you want) takes on colours.
It is this lack of consistency that can make your image not work well together as a unified body of work. Typically fine art photographers work hard at capturing the perfect images they require with the least amount of noise possible. Then, they will remove any noise present and finally they will add grain either in programs like Photoshop or they will use a program or plugin like NIK Silver Efex Pro. Using this process, you can have complete control (and repeatable control) over the look, feel and size of the grain and you can make it consistent within all your images.
On the other hand if you like the look of ‘noise’ then by all means go for it! It has its own unique qualities that may work with your images. Just remember that’s it not grain.

© 2014 Francois Cleroux
Version 1.00 - February 2014

Friday, March 7, 2014

Whats the Best Gear

From several on-going web forum discussions. People were arguing what the best camera is but never layed out any guidelines. Here is what my reply was “On the best gear….”. Note that the forum is "Fine Art Photographers" and the question was “Are you a photographer or an Artist?” and in it someone asked about the best gear to use.

People are missing the point on “the best gear” and again goes to the question “Are you a photographer or an artist?” I’m often thinking many people are neither. When someone blankly asks what the best gear is, it's obvious they have no understanding of what photography is, what a camera is and what its for or how to use it! My question is "What's the best gear for what?"

As photographers (people who make realistic copies of the world around them) we need the best meaning gear that will give the best results based on what we are doing. A Hasselblad sucks at Bird Photography and so a Canon 70D or a Nikon D800 with a 500mm or 600mm lens is required. If we are doing corporate head shots and we never print very large, a full frame camera like a 5D is perfect combined with a good piece of glass. If on the other hand you are shooting head shoots that need to be printed very large, the 5D sucks and a Hasselblad or Leaf would be better. But, even these cameras may not do what you need if shooting high end large scaled landscapes or architectural images and so you may need to go to 8x10 or an ALP or something like that as you may require more perspective correction than what a TS Lens will offer. Photographers generally (note the word generally here as the trolls on this site will skip this word) require way more quality than a Diana camera and often more than a good cell phone camera. But even these may be good enough for Web based work and such.

As artists on the other hand we require other elements. And the camera or the gear should not be deciding your art or hindering your art. You camera should be your ‘tool’ and the old adage of make sure you “use the right tool for the right job”. A painter will know his tools and will not use a palate knife when a fine delicate brush is required. As artists why is your camera (the palate knife) forcing you to create art in a specific way? As artists ‘WE’, the artists decide on a project. We decide on the ‘language’ our photographs will use and we will decide on the project as a whole and will define what technical specs are required. Often these technical specs are not “quality” (the Hasselblad)  but rather a “look” or a “feeling”. So then the question is what is the “Best” camera turns into “What is the Best Camera for My Artistic Project”. It may be a Pinhole Camera, a Diana for doing Lomography type images, a Cell Phone for quick and easy, it may be a Leica type compact for high quality Street Photography, a DSLR for on location artistic Portraiture, a Medium Format Digital or perhaps Film (remember the project and the look) for on location Fine Art Nudes or perhaps 8x10 or 20x24 film camera for incredible grand landscapes.

Note that these can all me mixed up also as a Fine Art photographer could use a Diana if he chooses to for creating Fine Art Nudes. That’s the beauty of ART! But the point here is “What is the look you want?” and “What tools will get you those results?”

If you want to become a better artist you should learn to visualize and conceptualize a project. You should define its photographic language (what Camera, what Lens and what Focal Length if using a Zoom), what Viewpoint, what Aperture, what Film, what Look, what grain or other outputs (perhaps Cyanotypes as an example (Yes this much detail and others) and then based on what you need to create “the Vision” you should then choose the best tool! And it may be a Pinhole Camera! NOT a Hasselblad.

It’s all about control of the project and what photographic language and vision you want in your final images. As an artist you should know your equipment inside and out and be personal with it. You should know its strengths and weaknesses.

So is a camera better than another? Yes most definitely. What’s the best camera. The one that does what you want or need perfectly!

© 2014 Francois Cleroux
Version 1.00 - March 2014

Thursday, January 30, 2014

My Drive is full! Now what?

CAUTION: When dealing with adding, removing or replacing hard drives you should make sure that you have proper complete backup copies of all your files including the Operating System, Program Files, Your Data, Your Photo Library and your Photo Database.

As photography gains popularity and as photographers continue to shoot with ever increasing sizes of sensors creating larger and larger files, there is a point at which all hell breaks loose. At some point, if it hasn't already it will soon, your computer will run out of hard drive space.

What do you do when this happens? There are several basic options that most photographers turn to. But are these options the best choices? Let's look at some of these options, their strengths and weaknesses and lets then investigate yet another solution. Some of these options are better than others depending on your system, whether its expandable or perhaps a laptop. Note I will give some cautions along the way.

1 - The External Drive

The first and most obvious option is to simply add an external drive. At first thought this may be the easiest solution. Head to your local store, buy a cheap external USB drive, plug it in. done!

Well, not so fast. How does this solve your problem? Your main drive is full. All your images are on your main drive. Your photo editing software, let’s say Adobe Lightroom, is installed on your main drive but more importantly its pointing or is configured to look at your main drive. If you import new files from a memory card they will be copied to your main drive by default. It’s full. One can change the defaults so that new images are copied to the new drive.

This causes several problems. The first is that you will end up with images on your main drive AND on your external drive. This not only gets cumbersome but how do you then backup both of these drives? This make the whole process much more complex.

The bigger problem comes from the fact that your Database (yes the Lightroom Library is a Database) is a large file and along with created previews it will continue to grow as you add more images. Your main drive is full, so your Lightroom Library will not be able to grow.

Of course you can create more room on the main drive by moving all your images from your main drive to the new larger external drive. Not too difficult and not too messy to deal with in Lightroom as synchronizing images and folders is an easy task.

But, moving everything to an external drive has its own problems. External drives tend to be slow. Even USB 3 drives are slow in comparison to internal SATA drives. Other external drive options like FireWire400/800 or eSATA are also slow compared to full internal speeds. The new Thunderbolt connectors on Apple computers are screaming fast and work well. Thunderbolt connectors are now available on the newest high-end PC motherboards if you want a new custom PC built. However, Thunderbolt enabled external drives tend to cost a lot more than USB3 external drives. A new USB standard is on the way that will make NEW USB devices as fast if not faster than Thunderbolt but it is not available yet.

Another issue with external drives is backup. Backing up a slow external drive to another slow external drive is excruciatingly slow when you have a full Terabyte drive. Also, some laptops may only have one external USB connector and so copying will require an external USB hub which will further reduce speeds.

Lastly, most external drives are not very good. Many external drives fail because of cheap external power supplies, cheap internal electronics and worse, very cheap drives within the drive enclosures. I have even seen companies use cheaper drives from other manufacturers in their external drives! Some of us would consider this fraud and the manufacturers see this as a way of making more money. Another issue is that external drive enclosures capture the heat generated from the drive. This heat, is bad for the drive and thus reduces its expected life span.

Every year I have several club members and clients that have dead external hard drives. Often, they are relatively new as in just over 1 year to 2 years old, just out of warranty!

2 - Replace Your Main Hard Drive

Replacing your existing drive may be a good option. Not only will it give you more space if you upgrade to a much larger drive capacity like a 2 Terabyte drive or a 3 or 4 Terabyte drive. (Note not all older systems are capable of accepting 3 or 4 TB drives.) So doubling or quadrupling your drive space could potentially give you two to four years of extra photo capacity.

Replacing your main internal drive gives you a great added benefit. Most drives have a limited life span. Most manufacturers warranty their drives for only 1 year and a few specific more expensive models may have up to 3 years warranty. Manufacturers do this knowing that drives often start to fail in the 4th year. By replacing your main drive 'before' it fails, not only will it extend the life of your computer, but it will save you a ton of headaches if your drive had crashed.

By replacing your main drive and merely imaging your existing drive onto the new one (your OS, programs and data) it’s a quick and simple process. Once complete, if done correctly, you have nothing to change. No new drive letters, nothing to move, no settings to change. You just end up with a bigger drive.
A note on hard drives: most manufactures including the two largest (and best) manufactures Western Digital and Seagate, make consumer grade drives, mid-grade drives and enterprise grade drives. Obviously all at increasing costs.

These better quality drives are worth every extra penny. Some of these more expensive drives also give you the longer extended warranties. Note these same manufacturers also make 'green' energy efficient drives that consume much less power. These green drives also tend to be much slower and are not suited to main drives in a photographer’s computer. However they do make great in-expensive backup drives.

Its worth mentioning that these warranties only cover the cost of replacing the drive and not the cost of ANY data loss. Nothing beats having good backups!
Note with laptops that laptop drives are not available in large 2, 3 and 4 TB versions. Currently HGST (Hitachi) makes the largest drive in the TravelStar 1.5 TB. But changing from a 250 MB or 500 MB drive to a full 1 TB drive is a great option. Cease this opportunity to upgrade to a faster AND larger drive. Seagate makes a great 1 TB Hybrid drive that is part Hard Drive and part Solid State Drive that is an excellent fast option. The Seagate SSHD drive is available in both 2.5" Laptop and 3.5" workstation models.

A more recent problem re larger drives is that many of the newer ultra-portable ultra-slim laptops have SSD Drives (Solid State Drives) soldered directly on to the motherboard. These drives cannot be replace or upgraded.

Replacing a single main drive requires you to 'image' your existing drive onto the new drive. Basically this entails making an exact copy of your existing drive and copying all the information on it to a new larger drive. This can be done using specialized hardware or via software. Again, consult with your computer professional for help with this.

3 - Add a Second Drive

So another option and frankly a better option is to add another, a second, 'internal' drive. A word of caution here, adding another drive requires more power and some workstation computers have barely adequate power supplies in them to begin with, even if it’s a new computer. Make sure your power supply is capable of supplying good clean power to all your devices including your new added hard drive. Bad, and underpowered power supplies are the leading cause of computer lockups and system crashes! Adding a hard drive could create more problems and cause the power supply to fail completely. Consult with your computer professional before adding a second drive.

Having said that, a new high end higher powered power supply is not that expensive and could prolong the life of your computer. Adding a new Internal hard drive will add a ton of fast access space to your computer. But like in option one, you will need to deal with consolidating all your images into this new drive and then pointing Lightroom to the new location of your images.

The benefit here is that it gives you all the added space of the new drive and clears up all the space on your main drive that was previously taken up by images. Cleaning up your main drive and running a defrag utility could help speed up your system. Having dual drives, one for the OS and Programs and one for Data or Images will speed up your editing as both drives can run at the same time. Many good benefits here including the fact that you would not need to 'image' your main drive. The downside is that your older main drive would still be older and depending on how much it has been used and how old it is, it could fail soon if your system is 4 years or older.

Note that very few laptops are dual drive capable. Some of the larger 17" models and some of the business class 15" models have space for 2 drives. Check with your computer professional to see if your laptop is dual drive capable or check your laptop manufacturer’s website.

4 - Replace Your Computer

No matter which option you choose there will be some costs and some headaches. Again, no matter which option you use you will still have an older slower computer even if it does have more drive space. Perhaps this may be the time to replace your computer. If you are OK with the speed of your existing computer, and if it’s not too old, say no more than 4 years, then replacing or adding a second drive may be a good option that will see you through a few more years.

5 – Other Options

Two other options include using an external NAS (Network Attached Storage) device or using Cloud Based storage. But of these solutions have speed limitations that make working with images very cumbersome. These options are best suited for Backups.

In my next post we will look at what are the best options in the way of system configurations for creating value priced systems that work very well for photographers. So if your building or ordering a new computer, how should it be configured!

What's your take on this? Have you had internal or external drives fail? Have you gone through adding or replacing a drive? Did you run into problems? Please share with us.

© 2014 Francois Cleroux

Version 1.00 - January 2014

43° Mist and Fog - Vancouver, BC, Canada